Jairo Arcila Gesha
PRODUCER jairo arcila
PROCESS washed carbonic maceration
ELEVATION 1700-1900 masl
TASTE apricot, peach, pineapple, jasmine
RECOMMENDED BREW METHOD
This small lot is grown at Finca Castellon by Jairo Arcila, before being transported to La Pradera for processing by his sons Felipe and Carlos, both coffee processing experts and founders of the export company Cofinet. It is through them we sourced this special Colombian microlot.
Jairo, a third generation coffee producer, owns various forward-thinking farms and over the years has experimented growing exotic varieties with great success. Working together with his sons to perfect the practice of selective picking of coffee cherries, hand sorting and progressive fermentation techniques, Jairo has been able to continue to innovate and explore the boundaries of Colombian coffee, while still maintaining the coffee’s intrinsic cup profile.
Adhering to strict ripeness practices, whole coffee cherries are handpicked and exposed to a 42 hour complex sequence of anaerobic fermentations, including carbonic maceration. In the carbonic method, first, the coffee cherries are siphoned to remove low-density “floaters,” then added to an airtight tank with a one-way valve. Carbon dioxide (CO2) is injected to create a CO2-rich environment at low temperatures to avoid alcohol build-up.
Because the skins of the cherries are left in tact, fermentation can take days, weeks, even months. The varying levels of pressure in the tank creates different available sugars and pectins for the microbes to macerate in achieving this high-definition coffee.
The coffee is then gently washed and dried on raised beds for 16 days until a desired level of moisture is reached.
This coffee was produced entirely of the Gesha botanical variety, cultivated at 1700-1900 metres above sea level in the Quindio region. Originating from Ethiopia, the Gesha variety is highly prized for its exceptional and sophisticated aromatic and flavour characteristics.
The coffee went through several iterations to develop the roast profile. The variability of each initial set of prototypes was examined using various brewing methods, keeping in mind the species/variety of the coffee and the processing method.
We approached roasting this coffee from two perspectives: recognizing the individual flavour attributes of the coffee, as well as, its untapped potential; and, determining a roast profile to showcase those notable attributes.
While the coffee is dry like an East African selection, it is also uniquely processed and has an inherent sweetness that might be minimized if treated too aggressively. We charged the drum at a modest temperature and waited to apply gas (about 60%) 25 seconds after the turn around.
The coffee took its time moving through the drying phase and, while we reduced the heat gradually, we were unable to extend Maillard to much more than 3:54 minutes total. The drop in heat delta smoothed the final moments of roasting and we were able to extend first crack to about 80 seconds and drop the coffee at a light but manageable 389F.
The results in the cup are stunning. This coffee conveys a lot of clarity.
Delicately sweet-tart, stone fruit-driven. Super clean peach, apricot, with plenty of pineapple in fragrance and in the cup. Flavour-saturated structure with sparkling, juicy acidity; surprising buttery mouthfeel, lightly viscous texture is highlighted in the backdrop. The finish consolidates floral accents of jasmine and rose.
When brewed, the coffee offers immeasurable versatility. Here are a few brewing application suggestions.
V60 Pour Over
18 grams of coffee for 288 grams of water / 1:16 ratio
Grind the coffee to medium-fine.
Place the V60 on top of a coffee mug.
Fold the seam of the filter and place it in the V60. Bring water to a boil.
Flush the paper filter to remove the paper flavour.
Once this step is complete, discard the water from the vessel.
Add the ground coffee to the filter. Settle the coffee for an even bed.
If you are using a scale, place it under the mug and press the tare button.
Bring a kettle of water to 96C (205F) and let it sit for about 30 seconds.
Beginning in the centre of the coffee grounds, pour 40 grams of water in a circular motion.
Stir the slurry with a spoon. This is to ensure all the coffee is evenly saturated.
Allow 20 seconds for a de-gas.
Continue to pour the water in small 50-100 mL (or gram) pulses.
Spread the water evenly over the grounds.
The water line should not go above the level of the coffee.
The pour should take 1:30 minutes and the total contact time should be 2:30 minutes.
Rinse the paper filter with boiling water for 10 seconds.
Use 14 grams of fine filter ground coffee.
Pour 200 grams of water at 96C (205F) over the coffee.
Stir three times and steep for 60 seconds.
Place the handle on the Aeropress in order to prevent the water from draining through the filter.
After the 60 second steep time, take the handle off, stir three times back to front.
Place the handle on top of the Aeropress and evenly press the contents with constant and steady pressure into a cup or pitcher.
I used a bigger dose in an IMS Baristapro Competition ridge-less basket for this recipe.
You should be able to proportion down as needed to fit your basket size, keeping the brew ratio at 1:2.
22 g in an 22g portafilter basket
Brew time 31 seconds without pre-infusion
Output 45 g liquid